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Subject:
From:
"Andrew K. Rindsberg" <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Conchologists of America List <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Thu, 6 Jan 2000 11:12:21 -0600
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Shells can last a very long time if stored properly: Linnaeus' shells are
still largely intact after 250 years. Here are a few guidelines that may be
useful for long-term storage. (Old-time Conchlers can skip this message;
you've read it all before!)

As a general rule, if a material sticks to the shell, then it has already
chemically reacted with the shell. This includes materials like sticky
paper and tape as well as glue. After a chemical reaction, your shell will
never be quite the same as it was.

If a fibrous material fits tightly into cracks in the shell, then it may
gradually break the shell apart as the fibers swell and shrink in response
to changes in humidity. Cotton is such a fiber, and should be used with
caution in such cases (e.g., fragmented fossils).

If the material smells sour, then it is probably giving off acid vapors
that will slowly etch shells. Examples: most paper (other than "archival
quality" paper), most woods (especially oak). Newspaper is one of the most
acidic materials. At the very least, such materials should be ventilated
regularly to allow vapors to escape before building up. Use your nose as a
guide.

Shells naturally have encrustations, borings, marks of healing, and other
flaws that may indicate how the animal lived and died. Think twice before
removing or repairing them, and make a note of what you did on the label.

If you don't know how to remove encrustations (or host rock in the case of
fossils), then experiment with a less valuable shell before risking the
most valuable one.

Acids dissolve molluscan shell as well as encrusting bryozoans, barnacles,
etc.

You don't have to oil most marine shells. A lot of people don't, as well as
most scientific institutions.

Some shells do require special care. Always ask if you're not sure how to
take care of a shell. When in doubt, like a doctor, "Do no harm."

Do keep collection data with your shells. Use archival-quality paper (such
as the 100 percent rag paper sold as stationery) and ink (such as black
India ink). You don't have to write numbers on the shells if you don't want
to; one method of identifying individual shells is to measure them,
recording the information on the paper label. (For readers in the USA: A
metric ruler or set of calipers is all you will ever need.)

If you keep a catalog, make a copy of it. Store one copy with the shell
collection itself to make sure they stay together.

Let's get back together in the year 3000 and see whose collections are
still in good shape!

Andrew K. Rindsberg
Geological Survey of Alabama

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