I find that the use of cynoacrylic glue seems to be both cost effective and
easy to use if you are careful. cynoacrylics are not the same as "crazy
glue" and are availible from hobby shops. CA glue as we call it in the hooby
trades comes in various viscosities, I find that medium sets fast enought
but leaves the user a second or two to make sure the attachment is set, thin
will set so fast that its only one shot you have . BTW, nail polish remover
will un-stick anything YOU get stuck to such as the shell, a cup, or worst
of all, yourself!!
it's best to also attach a syringe needle to the spout as this will give you
greater control . CA dries clear unless you use it on clear films or clear
plastic in that case it will highlight your fingerprints white .
and as always here in the mighty US of A i must for my own safety give the
following "WARNING , do not apply glue to eyes , do not take internally,
avoid skin contact (unless you are reattaching a skin flap such as a stubbed
toe [yes it does work well for this , I've tried]) do not use glue to attach
currency to public places (gluing a half dollar to a bar top will result in
hours of entertainment) so on and so on . ferreter
 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Monfils <[log in to unmask]>
To: [log in to unmask] <[log in to unmask]>
Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 8:32 PM
Subject: Re: Xenophora questions
 
 
>Hi Phred,
>When I reattach Xenophora attachments, I use ordinary "white glue"
>(Elmer's Glue-All, Sobo Glue, etc.).  Not the white "school glues"
>however - they are water soluble after drying.  The PVA (polyvinyl
>acetate) - based glues like those mentioned above are insoluble in
>water, once dried.  Epoxy is stronger, but that isn't really an
>advantage I don't think, because if you attach the item with a glue
>that is a lot stronger than the shell, a bump will then result in
>either the attachment itself breaking, or worse, a piece of the
>carrier shell itself breaking off, still bonded to the attachment.
>Most epoxies and other resins also turn yellow upon hardening, or
>some time thereafter.
>Obviously, the first step in reattaching a carrier attachment is
>figuring out exactly how it was originally positioned.  There is
>usually an impression of the attachment in the body of the shell
>itself (though, if the attachment was not well bonded in the first
>place, the impression may be rather small and indistinct).  Figuring
>out which part of the attachment was actually bonded to the shell,
>and exactly how it was positioned, can take a bit of trial and error,
>and patience.  Once you get it right, it should fit very precisely
>into the impression.  Therefore, there is virtually no gap to be
>filled with glue, and only a very small amount of glue is required.
>A wooden spring-type clothespin is good to hold glued pieces in place
>until they dry.  Plastic clothespins are more lilkely to slip off,
>possibly causing damage.  If a small amount of glue oozes out of the
>gap when clamped, remove it before it has a chance to dry, with a
>small, dry, soft bristle brush (a child's water color brush is
>ideal).  Then, if you want to, you can brush some ordinary baking
>flour around the glued junction.  This will adhere to any exposed
>glue, and give it a dull (rather than shiny) appearance once the glue
>dries, which is virtually invisible.  Excess flour can be brushed or
>blown away after the glue dries thoroughly.
>The original Xenophora mekranensis ( I don't have the author handy)
>is a fossil form.  X. mekranensis konoi Habe is a still living
>subspecies of the otherwise extinct X. mekranensis.
>Paul M.
>Rhode Island
>