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Subject:
From:
David Lum <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Conchologists List <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 14 Dec 2014 12:50:36 -1000
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Carole,

     I use a brush or just my fingertips to liberally apply a coating of food-grade silicone oil (without any other agents mixed in and not silicone grease) to the surface of the shell and then leave the coated shell in a plastic bag for at least 24 hours to allow the silicone to penetrate into the pores and saturate the outer layers of the shell via capillary action.  Once the waiting period is complete, I rinse off the excess silicone oil with tap water to the point that the shell no longer feels slick or greasy.  I then just blot or wipe off the excess water and place the shell in the shade.  The remaining silicone does not evaporate, or does so only extremely slowly, and provides the "moisture" that should prevent the shell or periostracum from drying out and cracking.  This method also brings out the colors of very dry old shells, masks small chafe marks and scratches, and does not cause yellowing with time.

Aloha,
Dave Lum         

-----Original Message-----
From: Conchologists List [mailto:[log in to unmask]] On Behalf Of [log in to unmask]
Sent: Sunday, December 14, 2014 10:48 AM
To: [log in to unmask]
Subject: Re: [CONCH-L] Preserving Pen Shells

In addition to what has already been opined, I will direct folks to the following paper which I just came across in my files...

The effects of relative humidity on mollusc periostracum and the use of coatings to prevent loss. Joanna Morton. Collection Forum 20(1-2): 67-82 (2006).

This journal is published by the Society for the Preservation of Natural History Collection. A link to the paper is

http://www.spnhc.org/media/assets/cofo_2006_V20N172.pdf

scroll down to page 78 of the PDF.


> Thanks Charles,
>  Should have looked at my copy first. Your book answers most questions 
> fully.
>  Thanks,
>     Carole
>
>
> In a message dated 12/13/2014 9:09:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 
> [log in to unmask] writes:
>
> Carole,
>
> I have have kept a number of thin walled Viviparidae  and Pyganodon in 
> ziplock bags without any other treatment. They have held  up well for 
> the past 10 years. A few which I did not put in ziplocks (an  
> oversight) cracked within a few months.
>
> The ziplock bag, while  permeable to moisture, isolates the specimen 
> from rapid changes in relative  humidity and seem to protect specimens 
> reasonable well without  "contaminating them with various chemical.
>
> On the other hand, if the  specimen is going to be part of a display 
> or one that will be handled by  people, then some of the preservation 
> techniques mentioned would be worth a  try.
>
> I also offer the following which appeared in Chapter 2 of The  Mollusks:
> Aguide to their collection, study, and preservation
>
> Animal  and vegetable-based oils will become rancid with time and 
> should be avoided. Silicon oil is a relatively inert substance. Its 
> stability,  lack of odor, and safety profile have made it a substance 
> that people  are comfortable using. The silicon oil is cut with 
> naphtha or mineral  spirits
> 1 part to 2-4 parts. Shells are dipped into this mixture and then  
> placed on a flat surface. The solvent evaporates leaving behind a thin  
> coating of silicon. If diluted appropriately the amount of silicon oil  
> remaining should not leave the shell feeling greasy or tacky. Too much 
> oil  makes the shell slippery and a “dust magnet”. Mineral oils 
> can be used  in a similar fashion.
>
> A number of collectors have used a solvent called  WD-40® to brighten 
> the surface of a shell or to preserve the periostracum.  WD-40 is a 
> petroleum distillate. Some collectors dilute it 1 part to 3-4  parts 
> naphtha or mineral spirits and then dip their shells into this  
> solution. Others use the WD-40 full strength. We do not recommend 
> WD-40 for  one preservational aspect - it is a proprietary and secret 
> formula. Such  mixtures are of unknown composition and can be changed 
> at any time. Thus,  you are never certain what you are putting on your 
> shells. If you are going  to apply a coating to your shells, you do 
> not want to apply it full strength.
> This full strength coating will often make the shell tacky and  slippery.
> Many collectors dilute the oily substance with naphtha or mineral 
> spirits.
> Diluting the oil one part to three or four parts of solvent is  often 
> sufficient. When the solvent evaporates, it leaves behind a thin  
> coating of the oil. Also, the thinned oil is able to penetrate into 
> the  shell deeper than the full strength oil would. When using 
> solvent, make  sure there is adequate ventilation and no sources of 
> open flames. While naphtha and mineral spirits are relatively low 
> toxicity, they can act  as respiratory irritants. They are also 
> flammable, thus no sources of  flames or sparking should be present.
>
> Clench (1931) described a process  of mixing paraffin with xylene. 
> Place
> 120 g (4 ounces) of paraffin in 300  ml (10 ounces) of xylene. Warm 
> this in a water bath to dissolve the  paraffin in the xylene. Shells 
> are dipped into the solution and then  placed on a flat surface to 
> dry. The xylene will evaporate leaving behind a  thin coating of 
> paraffin. Remember that xylene is flammable so avoid  open flames. 
> Xylene is also a respiratory irritant, so this method should  only be 
> performed in a fume hood or a well ventilated area such as  outdoors.
>
> You should also keep in mind that many collectors and most  museum 
> workers apply no surface coating to shells. Generally, if you keep  
> the temperature and humidity level of your storage area within a range 
> of  16-21ºC
> (60-70ºF) and 50-55% relative
> humidity, there should be no  concern with the periostracum peeling 
> (See Chapter 5, Archival and  Curatorial Methods). Also, there is 
> nothing wrong with a slightly faded,  pristine shell as opposed to one 
> that is shiny but chemically  adulterated.
>
> Clench, W. J. 1931. A preventive for the scaling of the  periostracum.
> Nautilus 45:  30-31.
>
>
> Regards,
> Charlie
> .................................................
> Charlie  Sturm
>
> Treasurer
> American Malacological Society
>
> Research  Associate - Section of Mollusks Carnegie Museum of Natural  
> History Pittsburgh, PA, USA
>
> Associate Professor - Family  Medicine Fellow-American Academy of 
> Family Practice Fellow-Academy of  Wilderness  Medicine
>
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Regards,
Charlie
.................................................
Charlie Sturm

Treasurer
American Malacological Society

Research Associate - Section of Mollusks Carnegie Museum of Natural History Pittsburgh, PA, USA

Associate Professor - Family Medicine
Fellow-American Academy of Family Practice Fellow-Academy of Wilderness Medicine

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