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Subject:
From:
Betty Jean Piech <[log in to unmask]>
Reply To:
Conchologists of America List <[log in to unmask]>
Date:
Sun, 22 Aug 1999 15:34:41 -0400
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Dear Shelling Friends -

Sorry, I have nothing to contribute to the Micro/Macro discussion but
thought for a change of pace some of you might enjoy reading about my
recent trip to Fiji and Vanuatu.

Including our Leader Glenn Duffy,we had a group of 18, most of whom I knew
from previous trips.   We left Los Angeles on July 29 and returned on
August  14.  Like most such adventures,  there were some high spots and
also some low spots - but I wouldn't have missed it for the world.

We flew into Nadi, on the big Fijian Island of Vita Levu and then took a
boat to the small island of Malololailai, and the Plantation Resort.  Of
course there were some problems - there always are.  The first one was
about our collecting which the hotel was not happy with; but,  since our
Leader had cleared this before we went we were allowed to collect but asked
to be selective and not make a display of what we were doing   and we were
all very agreeable to that.

The second problem was that, while shelling was wonderful the first trip I
had there, it was disappointing this time to find the shells were much less
abundant, but I think everyone managed to find enough that they were not
too unhappy, you just had to work a little harder.  I am sure this was due
to the fact that the airstrip was extended way out into the Harbor to
accommodate larger planes; and, as a result of the fill and habitat
destruction, shells were must less abundant.   Isn't it interesting that
the hotel didn't object to that at all.

Some people snorkeled, but the majority did intertidal collecting turning
rocks, following trails, and often just picking up exposed dead (and live
)} shells.  I was pleased with what I found including quite a few
Ranellidae (which is my family).  Unfortunately the cowries seemed to be
particularly scarce.

As always the variety and abundance of the beautiful flowers, scrubs and
trees (so different from here at home) occasionally takes one's attention
away from shells (but only briefly).

Several days we had boats to take us a little farther from the hotel.
However, the collecting remained about the same.   One place we tried was
very interesting.  It was some sand flats that appear in the middle of the
harbor at low tide and are completely covered at high.  We went out by
boat, probably about a mile.  I have no idea how deep the water is there at
high tide, but we all made sure we had time to get back to the boat when
the tide came in.

One day we took the boat and went to the larger island of Malolo
(Malololailai mean small Malolo)  where they have a small shell and
handicraft market.  Everyone found a few things to buy, but I couldn't help
comparing it in my mind to when I did this several years ago and the shells
on display were so much more abundant.  I bought three identical little
rings for my grand daughters.  They had a tiny heart on them cut from some
shell - very shinny and varying colors of blue, green, gray, etc,  and
reminded me of the inside of an abalone shell.   I asked one  native what
the shells was and she said "puca" shell, at least that is what it sounded
like.   Do any of you know what that shell would be?

I made much use of my thank-you vocabulary list so I knew thank you in
Fijian was vanaka (vaca levu - very much).  But I got a little tired of
saying bula, which means hello.  It was said by every single person you
make eye contact with, no matter how many times a day, both guests and
hotel employees.  After several hundred bulas a day its gets a bit much -
but still its nice especially because everyone smiles every time they say
it.

I am sure you would be interested in a list of what I found; but,
unfortunately, after several days I am still trying to get over jet lag
(there is a 13-hour time difference) and my shells are stored in my freezer
waiting for a more convenient time.

Now about Vanuata, its a group of islands that used to be called New
Hebrides.  It is about a 1/4- hour plane ride from Fiji.  International
planes land on the island of Efate which is the capitol  and from there you
take a bus a couple of miles to a ferry which takes you over to the island
of Erakor - boat ride of about 10 minutes.  At the end of the boat ride is
the "hotel" where we were staying.  One main building (dining room,
reception, etc.)  surrounded by a small cluster of cottages are that make
up the resort.   The manager and his wife live there, the remainder of the
staff are on adjoining islands.  It is a small island, probably not more
than a mile long, and walking the length you find some places that are only
a couple of hundred feet wife.  The manager told me that after one storm
the island was cut in half for a few days.

Here again there was a problem collecting.  The new manager and his wife
had only been there 7 seven week.  They were still trying to learn what to
do and there was a lot to be done.   Tiny ants were a problem but after a
while one gets used to them.  At least I didn't have them in my bed as some
people did.  When I tell some friends this they say in horror "You go on
these  trips voluntarily?"   Of course I do, the pleasure I get far
outweighs a few little ants - at least on this trip we had nice, fully
functioning toilets and showers with hot water - which is not always the
case.  But getting back to collecting, the natives here collect shells for
food and the supply is diminishing.  Our Leader explained to the new owner
that this had been agreed to by the previous owner so the current one
agreed as well, just asking us not to pick up everything we saw, and most
caring collectors are selective in what they take even without being told..

The several people in our group who had been there before agreed that the
shells were much
less abundant than previously.  After two days of walking around that
little island it was decided that we would take the ferry  back to Efate
and try some spots over there, which we did.   I really liked Black Sand
Beach.It had very little live stuff  (although I did get two live Harpa
amouretta)  But it was under rocks at water's edge where I had fun.  Some
rocks had nothing under them, but many contained a veritable treasure trove
of diversified little crabbed stuff.   Again this is all correctly in the
freezer, be patient I will send a list someday.

Found one other place that had nothing.  And then just driving around in
our bus we found a spot that was really great,  But it wasn't long before
the chief of the nearby village with his entourage arrived and chained we
were trespassing and we were ordered to leave.  After our tour leader had a
long talk with him, it was agreed we could to return the following day for
4 hours of  collecting.  Of course we made a gift (monetary) to the chief
but it was well worth it.  And I was happy we did, for when I went to shake
the hand of the tall erect white-haired chief  and say thank you as we
left, I discovered he had lost hands fighting the Japanese in World War II.
  Probably most of you  are too young to remember that but I sure do.  I'm
sure  his right forearm has never been shaken so enthusiastically.

And what did we find there -  olives, strombus, cones,  harps, terebras,
cowries, etc.,- I'll bet you are  drooling on your computer.  It was the
one place on the trip that I snorkeled (in 2 - 5 feet) .  Of course some of
our people were diving much deeper than that, but for me it was some of the
best fun I have had in 39 years of collecting.    Again you will have to
wait for a list, hope you don't get tired waiting.

By now you have probably read enough.  So will add just one final thing.
In the Vanuatu Group of Islands each one usually has its own dialect.  The
common language used throughout the islands is pigeon.  And to say thank
you so much  is "Tank yu tomas."

Betty Jean, The Tall One

P.S. Please excuse any mistakes I missed, I am too tired to read it again.  BJP

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