Mark, Tom, & Conch'lers
 
At 06:40 PM 6/5/98 -0700, you wrote:
>mark wrote:
>>
>> the suggestion of WD-40 could be a bit dangerous as the prime ingredient in
>> this product is diesel fuel, there might be additives that will eventually
>> break-down the shell.
 
>Tom wrote:
>
>I agree with Mark about the dangers of using WD-40.  If there is any
>excess that is not wiped off it will eventually evaporate and leave a
>pale-yellowish, varnish-like coating.  Mineral oil or silicon, on the
>other hand, evaporate clean with no residue.
>
>And Mark, I wish I had known the trick about Vaseline and naphtha for
>freshwater bivalves.  I have had quite a few lose the periostracum no
>matter how carefully handled or stored.  Have you tried this on other
>bivalves where the periostracum is important, like the green mussel
>(Mytilus viridis)?  My specimen is now a white, green mussel as the
>periostracum is long gone.
>
>Tom (enjoying 75 degree weather in New Mexico)
 
 
I very much agree that the mineral oil-lighter fluid solution is one of the
best methods for enhancing the color of your shells.  Even those that have
become dull and lusterless.
 
For the past 25 years I have used this solution -- 50% mineral oil and 50%
lighter fluid mixed well and stored in a small, air-tight nalgene jar.  I
use various size soft camel hair brushes to coat the shells with the
solution.  Using the smallest gauge brushes will allow the solution to
penetrate even the most intricately sculptured Murex, or spiny Spondylus.
I liberally coat the shell with the solution and let it sit a few days on
an absorbent paper towel.  The thinned-out mineral oil soaks into the shell
and the naphtha evaporates.  No residue, no discoloration, and no stickiness.
 
I do not think that the solution prolongs the color, but it definitely
enhances the pigments of shells that do not have a glossy surface.  It also
enhances the luster of shells that have become dull and chalky.
 
A word of caution: wear disposable latex gloves and use eye protection when
handling lighter fluid, and use the solution in a well ventilated room.
The solution will sometimes splatter when brushing it on a shell.
 
Do not use this on Cypraea, Oliva, Marginella or other glossy shells.  The
solution will not absorb into the glossy surface and the mineral oil will
remain on the surface of the shell.  Avoid using this with Muricids in the
genera Aspella and Dermomurex.  It will take the naturally white shells and
darken them to a beige or tan color.  The shells do eventually whiten up
again, but in my experience it takes a year or more.
 
Also, do not use the solution on any land shells that have a chalky white
or tan colored periostracum, often referred to as cuticle.  This type of
periostracum is found on many species of Helicostyla, Asperitas, and some
Papuina.  The periostracum will effectively disappear as it would in nature
when wet.  The water evaporates quickly on the living mollusk; the solution
on the cleaned shell will not; the periostracum will not return to its
natural state for a long time.  But then, any liquid solution applied to
this type of periostracum will have the same effect.
 
Hopefully this will not dissuade you from using the mineral oil/naphtha
solution.  It works, and it will enhance the color and luster of many
shells in your collection.
 
Rich
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Richard L. Goldberg
Worldwide Specimen Shells
P.O. Box 6088
Columbia, MD 21046-6088; U.S.A.
Phone/fax:  (410) 379-6583
email:  [log in to unmask]
homepage:  http://www.erols.com/worldwide
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~