----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Recently I sent a message to the list asking for suggestions for repairing
old maps.  I want to share the responses I received with the list.  Some do
not apply to our particular situation, but contain information others of
you might find useful.  Our maps are classroom-type maps dating from the
1940s and later.  Most are not the type of thing one might archive, but
some might be.  Some are old student cartography projects.  In most cases,
only small portions of the map are affected, rather than the entire map.
Our goal is to lengthen their life until the budget will allow us to
replace them with more current material.
 
Here, then are some of the responses:
 
From: [log in to unmask] (P. Andrew Ray)
>
>Dear Paul
>
>I am a student at the University of Western Ontario, in London.  We have
>here one of the best library schools in the country.  One of the courses
>offered here is the conservation and preservation of old, brittle
>materials.  One of the projects I did when I took this course was to
>preserve an old newspaper map.  The best way to preserve an old map is to
>remove the old backing and re-line it with some sort of acid-free paper,
>such as mulberry paper.  This is a time-consuming task, but if you have the
>patience, and if the map is worth the effort, it will ensure that the map
>will ast a good long time.
>
>Here's the procedure:
>1)  You'll need a large working surface.  Soak the map with distilled water
>from an atomizer bottle.  Gently remove the backing, using tweezers and
>small wooden spatulas (like tongue depressers).  Let the map dry, using
>fresh blotting paper under heavy weights.
>2)  Deacidify the map, using a solution of calcium hydroxide in water (can
>be bought at your drugstore, I imagine).  Soak the map with this solution.
>Again, dry the map.
>3)  Reline the back, using wheat paste and mulberry paper.  This will
>ensure that the map remains deacidified, and the backing should provide
>reinforcement for a long period of time.
>
>If this sounds too complicated, find your nearest library school that
>offers a similar course and offer them the map.  Usually the instructor
>will take the map and use it as a project for the students, and return it
>to you free of charge.  I would imagine that to get this done
>professionally would cost in the neighbourhood of several hundred dollars.
>The catch to this is that you assume the risk of the map being more damaged
>than what it already is.
>
>Hope this was helpful.
>
>Sincerely,
>
>P. Andrew Ray
>Department of Geography
>University of Western Ontario
>[log in to unmask]
 
 
 
From: James Gouger <[log in to unmask]>
>
>Paul-
>
>Assuming your maps are not rare or valuable--i.e., they are old and worn
>classroom maps that you want to keep using a while longer but don't want
>to spend much money preserving--I would use wallpaper paste to re-attach
>the paper to the backing.  Best to use commercial wallpaper paste which
>is treated to be mildew resistant; otherwise you may wind up trading one
>problem for yet another.
>
>Good luck!
>
>Jim Gouger
>Department of Geography
>Mary Washington College
>Fredericksburg, Virginia
>[log in to unmask]
 
 
 
From: Alberta Wood <[log in to unmask]>
>
>Hello Prof. Larson,
>        I'm no preservation expert, but I would resist joining the
>brittle maps up with old cloth backing.  It may be contributing to the
>acidity that is making them brittle.  On the World Wide Web, there is an
>address for something called COOL which is for people involved in
>preservation and conservation, check it out.  It's easy to find, but I
>can't remember an address, off hand.  As a stop gap measure, I
>would recommend encapsulating in mylar, joining sheets of mylar, if
>necessary, to get a big enough piece.  The other library folks in Utah
>may be able to direct you to preservation experts nearby.
>           Alberta
>|===========================================================================|
>|Alberta Auringer Wood, Map Librarian, Memorial University of Newfoundland, |
>|St. John's, Newfoundland, CANADA  A1B 3Y1.  phone: 709-737-8892;           |
>|     fax: 709-737-2153;     Internet:  [log in to unmask]             |
>|===========================================================================|
 
 
 
From: [log in to unmask]
>
>Paul,
>I would never respond to MAPS-L with what we do for some of those old wall maps
>as the conservationists would tar and feather me. The trade off is to make the
>map useful for researchers and so what we did was cut the map in long strips of
>24" wide by 5-6' lengths (whatever the roll size is) and laminate the strips.
>We can usually do a normal wall map in 3 strips and it is still useful for its
>information. Obviously lamination is not a conservation technique but we
>certainly do not have the money to pay to have them restored and have no
>intention to resell them.
>Good luck,
>Cheryl Woods
>Map Library
>University of Western Ontario
>London, Canada
 
Cheryl, By including your note with my message to the list, I do not intend
to have you tarred and feathered.  So, I offer my apologies, and I will be
the first to stand between you and the tar bucket.  But you offer a useful
suggestion.  You will notice that several others are similar.  I think the
applicability of this or any other technique depends on the nature of the
map and the ultimate purposes in preserving it.  My purpose is simply to
prolong their life until they can be replaced.  Paul
 
 
 
From: Scott Raymond Mc Eathron <[log in to unmask]>
>
>There is really nothing you can do to reverse the process of the acid in
>the paper.  Once the paper is dead - it is dead.  You may be able to
>repair the item with some archival quality tape.  Your librarian should be
>able recommend something.
>Good luck,
>Scott
 
 
 
From: [log in to unmask] (David Raymond)
>
>Paul;
>
>I can certainly identify with your problem of stabalizing the cartographic
>wonders of the late 19th and early 20th centuries, this can be a rather
>expensive proposition. Over the years, our small college has received,
>as donations, a number of lacquered lithographic and linen backed wall
>maps which have required such work. I can only suggest that your choices
>would be either encapulation or lamination. I know that archivists cringe
>at the thought of laminating an old document, but these particular examples
>are costly to restore.
>
>My suggestion is to consider 'hand' lamination using cut strips of laminating
>film and an iron (yup, that's a hot iron). By positioning the pieces below the
>laminate, and burnishing after it's heated, the map can be stabilized and
>secured to the base material. Just work on a large lay-out table and
>finish all edges with a wrap around. This will secure and preserve the maps,
>but remains an archival no-no.
>
>Good Sig. with addition!
>
>>"Support Your Local Cartographer"              ""Buy a map.""
>>
>
>
>David
>
>
>
>
><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>
>David H. Raymond
>Cartography Instructor
>Nova Scotia College of Geographic Sciences
>[log in to unmask]
 
 
 
From: "KEN ROCKWELL" <[log in to unmask]>
>Organization:  U of U Marriott Library Staff Net
>
>Hello, Paul:  Sorry it took me a bit...  Your question is out of my
>field of expertise, but I've contacted our preservation expert, Randy
>Silverman, who will get in touch with you.  Hope this helps...  Ken R
>
 
Randy Silverman called me on the telephone and offered the following
suggestion.  He said to obtain a polyvinyl acetate glue, such as "Elmers."
Use the white glue, not the yellow woodworking "Elmers."  Thin the glue
50-50 with water, and apply it to the backing and pieces of map with a
small paint brush.  Use a damp paper towel to wipe up excess glue.Then let
it dry under pressure by placing a weight on it.  To prevent the weight
from sticking to the map, place a piece of waxed paper between them.  Allow
the glue to dry thoroughly.  When dry, the glue is flexible, and can be
rolled up with the map.  This is not a preservation technique, but merely a
method to prolong the life of the map.  Randy, if I missed anything in the
explanation, please let me know.
 
Thanks to all who responded.  I appreciate it greatly.  When you have a
question, the list members really come through.
 
Sincerely,
Paul R. Larson
 
Paul R. Larson
Assistant Professor, Geography
SC 309
Southern Utah University
Cedar City, Utah 84720
 
tel: (801) 865-8244
fax: (801) 865-8051
E-mail [log in to unmask]
 
"Support Your Local Cartographer."
"Buy a map, take a class."